November 19th will once again quite large numbers of Bristol City fans flying out to Berlin to watch the national side. What follows here are fifteen questions answered by City fan Jon Darch who was responsible with others for compiling the very impressive, informative and useful world cup in Germany guide.
Can you recommend a largish bar which is easy to find for fans to meet on matchday and convenient for the stadium?
The obvious place right outside the ground is the Stadion-Terrassen (Stadium Terraces). As the name suggests, this sits on a raised terrace overlooking the main walkway from the metro (S-Bahn) station to the south gate (Südtor) of the stadium. On a nice day they serve the beer from outdoor tables and you can sit on the terrace wall and watch the thronging crowd down below making their way into the ground. When I produced my website for the 2006 World Cup I asked several Hertha Berlin fans to give a few tips about things like where to drink, and the Stadion-Terrassen was mentioned by several of them. Other places they mentioned can still be seen on the website, which, although slowly becoming dated, is still online. See: http://www.theworldcupingermany.com/artman/publish/article_406.shtml
Over land and sea
How much do you think is a reasonable cost for Beer?
Well, let's just look at a few prices being quoted by a fine Bavarian-style pub in the eastern part of Berlin just outside the S-Bahn station at Hackeschen Markt, the 'Weihenstephaner' (you may have sampled the brewery's produce: it's sometimes available over here). For 0.5 of a litre their prices are all around the €3.60 mark. Six months ago that would have been equivalent to about £2.40. With the pound now much weaker against the euro, it's around £2.80. The Weihenstephaner pub, by the way, can be found online here: http://www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de/?cid=30&cid2=&language=en
CIDER! Where can we find it?
Your best bet - though you should really be going to German bars in Berlin! - is probably an Irish pub. I know of two: there's one in the Europa-Center, which is close to Zoo Station (Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten). If you've ever seen any pictures of a tall tower block in Berlin with a revolving illuminated Mercedes star on top of it - that's where it is: at the foot of that tower. The place is just called The Irish Pub at the Europa Center (see: http://www.europa-center-berlin.de/showpic.html). The bar is 36m long. While this pub is very much in the heart of what was once West Berlin, the other Irish pub I know is in the East, in an area called 'Mitte' (literally 'middle'), which was once rather seedy but is now striving to become the happening new centre of the city. This is the Oscar Wilde on Friedrichstrasse (get off the S-Bahn at the station of the same name and walk 200 yards). See: http://www.oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de/index.html). They definitely serve Strongbow (I know it might not be your favourite, but at least it's cider!) and show the footy.
What's a sensible price for a hotel room near the City centre?
How long is a piece of string? When I'm travelling in Germany, I generally like to stay at what can only be described as 'inns', i.e. large, food-serving pubs with 20 or so rooms. In the provinces, I'd feel hard done by if I had to pay over €50 for b&b in such an inn. In Berlin things are a bit pricier, but even so single rooms in plain but perfectly respectable hotels can be had for €60 and doubles or twins for around €75. For those on a tight budget and not averse to dorm-style accommodation, there are also plenty of backpacker hostels around town. See the map on my website for plenty of options in all price brackets: http://www.theworldcupingermany.com/artman/publish/cat_index_124.shtml
Some City fans will be travelling out with wives and partners what is the one thing you would advise seeing in Berlin?
Not one, but three - and all within 5 minutes of each other on foot. 1) The Brandenburg Gate. You can't go to Berlin without seeing this landmark of the city, which throughout the time of the Wall was stranded in no-man's land between East and West. 2) Just to the south of the Gate is the Holocaust Memorial. A bit sombre, I know, but a striking ensemble of grey marble blocks of varying heights that serves as a reminder to the nation of its forefathers' sins. 3) The Reichstag. The German government building now crowned by a glass dome designed by Sir Norman Foster. If you have the time, queue to go inside and up onto the roof, where you can walk up the spiral path inside the dome to very top. If you've got even more time and want to impress the wife, book a table to eat at the rooftop restaurant (not cheap, but considering it's location not a rip-off either). Here's their website: http://www.feinkost-kaefer.de/ht_de/gastronomie/berlin/berlin.php … it's all in German, but if you're interested, just fire off an e-mail to the address shown and I'm sure they'll answer you in English.
Is Berlin going to be all about Scary Mullets and Bratwurst?
I think the mullets are pretty much a thing of the past … but the Bratwurst is still there! And in Berlin, you must try it in the Currywurst variety, i.e. sliced, covered in a tangy barbecue-style sauce and sprinkled with curry powder. Best eaten at about 3am, standing outside an Imbiss (snack bar) trailer. As this site shows you, there are Currywurst stands all over Berlin:
http://www.currywurst-berlin.com/9501.html. I can particularly recommend Witty's at Wittenbergplatz 1 (shown on that page) and 'Die EsSbahn' at Schoenefeld airport (http://theberlinimage.blogspot.com/2008/03/currywurst-at-schnefeld-airport.html) - just turn up for your return flight half-an-hour earlier than you need to, check in your bags and enjoy one last Currywurst in the old tramcar-cum-diner on the airport forecourt!
Food. For a capital City will Berlin's food on offer be as cosmopolitan as London's or even our own good City?
Yes. You'll even be able to find an Indian if you look hard enough. Try Orianenburger Strasse (just around the corner from the Oscar Wilde pub), where you'll find a whole road full of various restaurants, many with tables on the pavements and overhead heaters for if the evening gets cold. Whatever cuisine takes you fancy, you should find something you like there. If you want traditional German, try reputably the oldest restaurant in Berlin, 'Zur Letzten Instanz' (http://www.zurletzteninstanz.de/a_sprache_eng/index2.htm) and if you want to watch the city go round below you while you eat, have a bite in the revolving restaurant at the top of the TV tower (http://www.berlinerfernsehturm.de/en/erlebnis_kuli_en.asp?usite=kulinarisches) - reservations recommended for both of the latter two.
On a Wednesday night can Berlins nightlife cater for those who are going to want to stay out all night?
I'm sure it can, but I'm way too old to know from personal experience! … However, I asked one of my Berlin contacts, who in turn asked one of her friends … and the answer was as follows:
Die Oranienburger Straße ist auf jeden Fall ein guter Anfang für den Abend ...
"Oranienburger Strasse is certainly a good place to start the evening, e.g. at Tacheles (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kunst_Haus_Tacheles), which is very exciting. If you want something a bit less wild, go up to the Oranienburger Tor (Oranienburg Gate) and right into Torstraße. There parallel with Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, for instance, is the Kaffee Burger (http://www.kaffeeburger.de/).
If that's not quite what you're after, carry on to Rosenthaler Platz and then on Weinbergsweg, which runs off from the square, you'll find a host of small shops and clubs.
If you go up Weinbergsweg, you eventually reach Kastanienallee, which is another 'Nightlife mile'. It, in turn, leads onto Schönhauser Allee where there are a number of other clubs (e.g. the Kulturbrauerei, see http://www.kulturbrauerei-berlin.de/kulturbrauerei/20_ENGLISCH/location.php) on Danziger Straße and the surrounding streets.
You'll find a different, very 'populist' style in Charlottenburg at the Q-Dorf (http://www.qdorf.de/).
As always, it's well worth buying 'zitty', one of Berlin's listings magazines ..." ... well, if you understand German, it is! Hope those suggestions give you a few ideas.
German football looks to be in a healthy state with the national side improving and grounds enjoying high attendances. Should the FA and Premiership be looking at Germany as an example of a Country where football is flourishing?
, but it's probably too late - the horse has already bolted, so shutting the stable door now wouldn't do much good. German football's rules dictate that 51% of all clubs have to be owned by the members. This is why they've not had a lot of big takeovers or an influx of foreign owners. The game is also seen over there as an important part of the cultural fabric of society and, as such, it is fiercely protected. The upshot of these two factors is that (a) there is still a great affinity between the fans on the terraces (literally!) and the clubs and (b) that the game is not so awash with money as ours. The downside of the lack of money is that the standard of players that the Bundesliga can attract is nowhere near as high as that which the Premier League can entice. The quality of football in the Bundesliga is therefore not on a par with that seen in many EPL games. The flip side of the coin, however, is that having the stadia full of passionate fans more than makes up in atmosphere for any absence of world-class quality on the pitch.
Some City fans will not have tickets for the match would you have any useful advice for them?
The game will probably go on open sale at some stage in Germany, so keep an eye on the German FA website (go to this ticketing page: http://www.eventim.de/cgi-bin/tinfo.dll?affiliate=dfb and click the link that says 'Ich bin kein Fan Club Teilnehmer' (I'm not in the Fan Club). You'll then see all of Germany's forthcoming games that are on open sale and the rest should be self-explanatory - even in German. Although standing fans in German grounds are strictly segregated, it is not uncommon for fans in the stands to be sitting side by side with fans of the opposing team. They exchange banter, drink their beer and enjoy each other's company. Anyone who wants to do likewise, should be OK.
If you want to watch the game on a big screen, I'd recommend the Sony Centre at Potsdamer Platz. It's a futuristic complex of building with a tent-like glass roof that is shaped to look like Mount Fuji. In the centre of the complex is a spacious open area surrounded by eateries, bars and a cinema. On one of the walls overlooking this area is a huge screen, which generally shows all the big games. Expect security guards at the access points, but once you're through the cordon, it's a great place to have a bite to eat, down a few beers and watch the game. More details here: http://www.sonycenter.de/aw/~a/Home/?lng=en
England will be playing in the Olympic stadium how does this compare to other stadiums in Germany and England?
It's unique. The only ground that used to come close in England was the old Wembley. The downside is that it has a wide running track, so - especially behind the goals - you can be a long way from the action.
The basic stone shell is a listed building, as it was built by the Nazis for the 1936 Olympics at which Jesse Owens so embarrassed Hitler by winning four gold medals. If you've seen the stadium from the air, you'll know that the roof (which itself is a modern addition) does not cover one end of the ground. That's because this is the Marathon Gate, which is also listed. On the wall at the side of the platform where the Olympic flame used to burn is a plaque to all the medal winners at the 1936 Olympics, including, of course, Owens.
To read more about the stadium and see what it looks like (you'll recognise the typical Nazi architecture) see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympic_Stadium_%28Berlin%29
Getting to the Olympic stadium! Is the S-Bahn underground system easy to use for those not used to scary things which go underground?
The S-Bahn is a doddle - and from the centre of town out to the stadium it doesn't go underground. In fact, in Berlin there are two urban rail systems: the S-Bahn (which you might call the 'metro') that runs above ground and the U-Bahn, the underground. Your match ticket will cover you for travel to and from the stadium (usually for about 3 or 4 hours either side of the game), so just hop on and off as you require. But don't leave it too late! Depending on your starting point in the city centre, the journey may take you a good 30 minutes. Then you'll need another 10 at the other end - at least - before you're in the ground. I'd leave the city centre 90 minutes before kick-off. For more details see the three pages listed as 'Berlin city centre to the stadium' here: http://www.theworldcupingermany.com/artman/publish/cat_index_34.shtml
England fans who travelled to Zagreb and Moscow were warned about displaying flags in public any likely problems apart from hanging St Georges off public buildings likely?
No. I wouldn't drape one on the Reichstag or any religious buildings or monuments, but out of hotel windows and the like won't be a problem.
How do the German police compare to their British counterparts?
In general I'd say about the same. They're generally quite tolerant, but if pushed can also react with a very firm approach. For my liking, they tend to wear their riot gear too often, so don't be surprised to see lots of them all tooled up, even if the day has been as peaceful as anything. However, it's mainly for show and if you behave yourself, you'll find them friendly enough.
Who had the greatest German mullet out of Voller, Klinsman, Schumacher or was it one of the heavy rock band the Scorpions?
As the Germans always say "Ein Rudi Völler, es gibt nur ein Rudi Völler…"
Enjoy the game!
